DIRECTOR'S DIARY



		Excerpts from Director Holly Stadtler’s Journal Sept 8, 2000 – Arrival in Tanzania Three hours to go and we’ll be landing in the shadow of Kili – I can still remember that quiet excitement bubbling in my soul the first time I stepped off the plane at KIA airport, six years ago. I disembarked down the back stairs of a double-decker KLM jet into a warm summer night and what hit me was the smell of the earth – the dry, warm, smell of dirt…I savor that memory and can still visualize my first few hours on African soil. I hunger for that sensation…. Sept 9 -- Game Drive! Within minutes of camp we saw half a dozen twiga – Swahili for giraffe. Our driver, (Baba) Sululu explained the two males were fighting. Close by a family of warthogs rooted and grazed. … We soon spotted more giraffes, hippos basking on an island in Momella Lake, augar buzzards, bush buck, water buck, herd of cape buffalo, Egyptian geese, speckled weavers, flamingos, sacred Ibis, and even baboons. It was a wonderful game drive! Sept 10 -- Practice Hike on Mt. Meru We first drove to the top of the trail – along the way we saw blue monkeys, baboons, white faced colubus monkey which were beautiful, extraordinary gymnasts with long coats, penetrating eyes and luxurious white tails dangling from the treetops. It was difficult to spot wildlife because I was trying to interview Paul Hardy; each time he was delivering information we were interrupted mid-sentence at the sight of animals. But it was a beautiful ride through tree covered forest with strangler figs, moss, and bromeliads. At the top of the hill which took about 45:00 we could see Kili, above the clouds of course! Sept 11 -- Day one on Kili At the trailhead, excitement filled the air as the porters packed our gear into larger sacks. Besides our group of 28 and 100 porters, there were additional Land Rovers, hikers and their guides; it was massive confusion bundled into an organized chaos. We eventually started up the mountain, and it seemed like we were going at a crawl – but that turns out to be best. I got lots of nice shots of trekking through the forest. It was a thrill to see so much elephant dung, some very fresh. The park ranger traveled with us (his gun ever ready). The porters had run ahead and set up a wonderful lunch – cheese, bread, peppers, tomatoes, avocado, cukes and carrots complete with chips -- all laid out on a lovely colorful table cloth! … While trying to fall asleep, I listened to a deep-throated sound like a bullfrog. I later learned it was a tree hyrax! The moon was so very bright, I didn’t even need a headlamp. Sept 12, Day 2 We walked through the Montane Forest for a couple of hours and I got some pretty video. Then we moved into the Heather zone which consisted of low bushes and lots of fresh smelling sage. We hiked some really steep parts before and after lunch, but lunch was in the midst of a plateau surrounded by beautiful hills. In several spots you could see a mile of trail stretching through the hills with a line of porters and hikers moving slowly (pole pole – the Swahili term meaning slowly, slowly the way you hike at altitude). … About a half-hour before sunset, the clouds cleared and we stood in awe as the summit looked over us. As the clouds rolled further, they revealed a beautiful almost full moon to the left of the mountain against a clear blue sky! We were ecstatic. Kwa heri, lale salama (Swahili words for goodbye, sleep well) Sept 13, Day 3 We awoke to clear, frosty skies and a wonderful view of our goal. Kili watched over us as we tried to unfrost the toilet seat and wash up in bowls of hot water while the thermometer read 26°F. But within 2 hours the temperature rose almost 20 degrees!! … Before we arrived at Fishers Camp, I tried to get in position to get camp arrivals on videotape, but the group kept pressing ahead. I cursed to the guide that Sirikwa (our main guide) needed to help hold them back just 2:00 and that he didn’t know how key the shot of camp arrivals could be. Well, the guide told Sirikwa who confronted me at lunch and the whole conversation sent me into tears. He was trying to assure me of his help, and I felt his feelings were hurt. I had to leave the mess tent and go to my tent for a nice cry. I didn’t mean to insult him; he’s dear and very helpful. I thought of abandoning the taping efforts rather than hurt people’s feelings or get in the way of anyone’s experience. But I’m not a quitter. I think the altitude and the Diamox make me more emotional which I’ll have to keep under control. … After dinner, Godfrey (one of the Tanzanian cooks) and I sang some hymns together and then several porters joined in and we sang in Swahili. Godfrey has a wonderful voice, a beautiful smile and is filled with the Holy Spirit. Sept 14, Day 4 I woke to an awesome sight! The rain had washed away and in front of my tent was a light blue sky with a beautiful, almost full moon. The wind bent trees at this high moorland (or heather) zone make wonderful outlines in the early morning light and across the sky are puffy white clouds floating slowly. But the best was when I turned around – there was Kili under light cloud cover with a little more snow than the day before. … The toilets consist of a 3-walled canvas rig about chest high which surrounds a wooden toilet seat on stilts which sets over a hole in the ground. There is of course no roof – it’s quite chilly. As of yesterday, the toilet paper hanging in a plastic bag got wet – but at least we had some! Today there’s none—good thing I brought Charmin with me. Sept 15, Day 5 We learned how to do the rest step – lock back leg, breathe, step and rest. It really made a difference on the steep portion. As we got within reach of camp, Mwena (my porter) and other porters met us and took our packs as we climbed a steep incline before reaching camp. Once we arrived at camp the snow picked up and didn’t stop for 5 hours. … After dinner Sirikwa gave us our briefing for tomorrow which sounds like a very challenging day: 6-8 hours from 16,000-18,500’ – steep and no big break for lunch (we all voted to eat power bars and press on). But tomorrow is the day that could break us. Already 2 have been sent down, Bob Tietlebaum and Dave Webb. Tietlebaum had symptoms of HAPE (fluid in the lungs). David had massive headaches and puking and decided on his own not to risk ascent. It was very sad to see them go.... Tonight we go to bed with heavy hearts and a bit of anxiety. Sept 16, Day 6 (the most difficult day of my life) This was a very difficult incline through a rocky area partly covered with snow and partly with ice. There was a group in front of us and it seemed to me we were moving way too slowly. We reached a very slippery precipice, and I looked down realizing one false move and you’d be tumbling hundreds of feet to your death. At this particularly tricky juncture I somehow got stuck in the middle of a traffic jam -- several people wanted to let porters pass and some wanted to take pictures. I screamed let’s go because I was losing my nerve quickly and didn’t want to get stuck in this deadly position. Thankfully Samai moved the group along. Within half an hour I became petrified again as shouts of “rock” came rolling down the hill. Large and small boulders tumbled at amazingly fast speeds and seemed to never stop. As I was last in a very long line, I was quite concerned that a boulder might knock me off the mountain, and in fact at one point a boulder rolled right between me and Paul Hardy. Narrowly averting it, I just prayed it was not God’s will that I die by being swept off this mountain. We reached some rather treacherous places – one where we grabbed a huge rock and walked a ledge around it and in several spots the guides had to assist us with rock climbing. They were amazing and really experienced. It was still a very tough climb and definitely the hardest thing I’ve ever done. Sept 17, Day 7 (summit day) I woke up at 4:40 and was ready to leave at 5:35. Cameron and Andrew decided to go up with the group so about 5:45am Elias (asst guide) and I set out alone. It was dark so I used my headlamp for the first 20:00. It seemed as though the group would catch up, especially since I stopped to photograph them. But I got there first, with Elias’ help – he carried my bag part of the way so we wouldn’t fall behind. I videotaped and hugged and talked with the climbers, all of whom were happy to summit. Our speech was slurred, and things seemed to move in slow motion – my shooting judgment was impaired by lack of oxygen as I abruptly broke away to film something while one climber I was interviewing was in mid sentence! … Somewhere on the trail of descent is a little hut that sells Coca Cola and beer, what a treat that was!!!! I arrived second into camp (after Terry) and quickly cleaned up and changed. En route to camp we learned some of the camp staff had been sent up the mountain for a rescue. I decided to run back up the mountain and film it. Mike Ellis’ knees gave out, and the porters carried him down. Dave Morrison’s knees were in pain, but he wouldn’t let anyone carry him; he eventually made it down after the light had faded. Sept 18, Day 8 Today we hiked the rest of the way down to meet the hikers who had to descend a few days ago. It was wonderful to see them and share adventure stories. We then sat down to a lavish lunch, complete with cold beers and said goodbye to our guides and porters. From here, we drove to Mkombozi Center for Street Kids where the director showed us around. We met some of the kids, were treated to song and traditional dance, and played a bit of soccer. It was a very special visit, and one of my most fondest memories of the trip. I can see the kids and the center really need the medical supplies, toys, clothing, etc. we brought from all the wonderful people in Naples who donated. It was a fitting way to close out our trip! Kilimanjaro for Hope - ©2003 Dream Catcher Films, Inc. All rights reserved.